Skincare For Dummies PT. 2: The Oily Skincare Files

Being in the beauty biz for nearly 2 decades, I have come across some of the most foul ways people have cut corners or simply misused products just because they weren't educated. 

I'm going to expand my "For Dummies" posts that I first started a couple years ago with my Skincare For Dummies post.  There will be a post for all areas of beauty from skincare and makeup all the way to fragrance.

I want to share my knowledge with you because you or someone you know may be committing crimes against beauty. Each story is true but the names may be altered to protect the inept.

Btw. I don't think everyone is a dummy.... just MOST everyone ;)

The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse (of your face that is)

Miss Congdon came to me at the Lauder counter 15 years ago with a face full of red blotches, bumps and flakey skin. Remember that episode of Sex and the City when Samantha got a chemical peel and her face looked like beef carpaccio? This woman's face was a shade worse. MC, in her late 30's, complained that she is extremely oily, acne prone and recently discovered she's got sensitive skin. Ok. 

MC rattled off her beauty routine. 

(Warning: what you're about to read may be upsetting, cause repulsion and cries of "oh dear god! Noooooo!").

1. Cleanser: Neutrogena, oily skin/acne formula

2. Exfoliator: St. Ives Apricot Scrub

3. Toner: rubbing alcohol (yes really).

4. Moisturizer: Vaseline 

So what would I tell a customer like Miss Congdon?

First of all it's rare, not impossible, but very rare for women in their late 30's to be truly oily. Just because you are acne prone doesn't mean you necessarily are oily. Hormones, especially in women over 30, can be a major culprit, but so can using the wrong skincare.

That specific cleanser from Neutrogena is very intense and should be used in small doses by people with skin that is truly OILY!!!! Just because you experience shine now and then or get a zit doesn't make you oily either. 

This has nothing to do with this post but I got sad looking at people with bad acne

By using a cleanser like this when you aren't truly oily, you will actually strip your skin of moisture and natural oils. When your skin has that "squeaky clean" feel, it will actually produce additional oil to make up for it. Kinda like when you skip meals to lose weight, you're body will think you're in starvation mode and store body fat. It's all very counter productive!

It's true that all skin types can use exfoliation, but this doesn't mean everyday with a granular exfoliant. I was one of the millions that used St. Ives. I loved it, but it's actually made up of apricot shells and can really irritate the skin if it's used too often or, yanno, ever really. Kind of like that "squeaky clean" feeling from cleansing, you're actually doing more harm than good. Exfoliating every day with this can actually cause little cuts and turn normal healthy skin into a sensitive, blotchy mess. 

I really don't even know what to say about the rubbing alcohol and Vaseline. That's just fucked up! Imagine for a moment that you have been stripping your skin into a raw zitty mess, then exfoliated the crap out if it, leaving it patchy and irritated from being cut up, now you want to put alcohol on it???? That's just masochistic and should be common sense as to what NOT to do. Go ahead and roll around naked in gravel and then skinny dip into a pool of citric acid and send me a selfie later. I need a little excitement to brighten up my days. Squeaky clean= bad. Rubbing alcohol is not to be used on your face. End of story.

Vaseline shouldn't be used as a moisturizer on the face either. Petroleum jelly and even products with mineral oil (I'm looking in your general direction Clinique Dramatically Different Lotion!) they don't actually hydrate. I like to refer to these as the smoke and mirrors of skincare. While they feel nourishing, both actually dry out your skin even more, causing skin to what? That's right: produce more oil. You know how when you don't get enough water because you've hit the soda fountain a little too hard (not that I would know) and you feel nauseous and actually barf? Think of your greasy mess of a face as your skins vomit. You're welcome for that mental image.

I got your game, Alek!

I don't give a shit which goddess-like, exotic supermodel swears by this as her moisturizer,  you aren't a supermodel! Even if you are, you should know better!

DO NOT USE VASELINE ON YOUR FACE!!!!

One of the worst offenders of skincare and true wolf in sheets clothing is Proactiv. I don't even know where to begin. When acne has gotten so out of control that you don't want to leave the house, the worse thing you can do is strip the hell out of it. There are tons of great skincare lines out there that you can get samples of to see how your skin reacts rather than screwing it up further. 

I'm sure there are many people out there that love them some Proactiv and hell, maybe it works for a percentage of people, but I'd never recommend as a starting off point. If you find yourself up at night watching infomercials and decide to pony up the dough for that business, when your face ends up looking like a Craisin, don't think I won't say "I told you so!". 

Fun fact: "I told you so" was one of my first sentences. 

There are times when breakouts become overwhelming and are actually a cause of hormonal imbalance. If this is you, especially if it's cystic acne, run, don't walk to the doctor. You don't necessarily need to see a dermatologist, but if you can afford one, go ahead. Actually, a family doctor should be able to treat this with antibiotics or other medications like Retin-A as well.

Let's say you've been riding the crazy face train and have continued abusing your face with multiple products meant for any place but your face. Your skin is so jacked up that switching to a new detailed regimen may not be the best route to go until you can figure out what your skin is like in its regular state. In fact you might continue the losing streak and end up with life long scarring.

Simplify. Use a foaming cleanser like Splash Away from Estée Lauder or Shiseido's Pureness Foaming Cleanser. In fact the whole Pureness line is amazing for normal to oily and straight up oily skin. Using a foaming cleanser like those are great for taking off makeup and cleaning the skin without leaving it chapped. 

Skip the exfoliant and toner. When your skin is detoxing like this, use a warm, wet wash cloth (like they used to give on airplanes) and let it sit on the skin till lukewarm. This great for drawing out impurities like blackheads, whiteheads, zits. After it has cooled down, massage in a circular motion. The fibers from the terry cloth is great for sloughing off dead skin and leaving your skin naturally refreshed.

If you really feel the need to use a traditional toner, use something that is alcohol free and salicilic acid free. I'd recommend using a toner for sensitive skin or even dry skin rather than going for your old "oily" standbye.

Moisture is going to be key here. You really want to baby your skin, but don't overdo it. Avoid using anything with oil as an ingredient, even if it's an oil that is meant for and safe for facial skincare.

Remember when I said simplify? I mentioned earlier that Shiseido has a great skincare line for normal to oily and truly oily skintypes. Their hydrating gel moisturizer is amazing. 

The other product I would recommend is the opposite of what you'd think: a face cream. Yes, I said it. Not all face creams are created equal, meaning not all face creams will make your skin oily. When I started easing my way back into a new routine, a cream was great because you don't have to use much to get moisture. Even using a partial amount of the recommended dose is a great start and over the next week you may find that you may need the whole pea sized amount.

A great cream is from Say Yes To Carrots Night Cream. This is a great moisturizer if you want only moisture and nothing else and no, it's use isn't strictly meant for night time use. You won't get the SPF, lifting, antiwrinkle, even toned, whatever effect, but remember, you'll figure all of that out later when your skin doesn't look so shitty. If you really want the SPF now, try Estée Lauder's Day Wear. That cream is one of my all time faves and will comfort and protect your skin.

So I bet you're thinking "ok Mo, wtf do you mean by later", well my squirrel friend, what I mean is at least a month. It takes about 28 days for skin to renew itself. Think of all the things your skin has been put through at this point and remember that good old adage "better to be safe than sorry" and apply that to your skin. 

If you are going to get samples it travel sized bottles of skincare, you won't see major results immediately. The reason for one or 2 day samples is to try them multiple times in a small period of time to find out if your skin has any bad reactions, to decide if you like the texture and if the fragrance is lovely or a deal breaker. Hint: even products that say "fragrance free" most often will still have a scent to them, they just may not add fragrance to cover up what the ingredients actually smell like.

It's gonna take about a month for your skin to straighten out, clear up and reveal what it is in it's regular non raw meat/road rash state. You may discover that you actually have dry skin or you might truly be oily. Who really knows? I don't pretend to. Even if your skin turns out to be oily, you still need to take care of it. 

When all is said and done and you're ready to head back to a skincare regimen, these are the brands I recommend and trust: Fresh, Origins, Shiseido, Estée Lauder, Chanel and Clarins. This is a great variety of brands in  different price ranges. Some are more specific than others and are great is you need products that perform a multitude of tasks. I've personally used skincare from each brand and have had lovely experiences. As my skin has matured, I've tried other lines that meet different concerns and that's ok. While you don't need to be married to a skincare line forever, it's a good idea to use a regimen from the same line because they work synergistically. 

If you are looking to stay in a lower price category, your best bet is to get something at a health store. Most of those products have all natural ingredients and are relatively inexpensive. The only drugstore likes I've had decent luck with are Burt's Bee's, the Yes To line and L'oreal.

What I will always say when it comes to anything: you get what you pay for. Your skin is something you have for the rest of your life, don't treat it poorly and if you're going to make the investment, choose good skincare over expensive makeup. You already read my blog, so you must know about how many amazing drugstore brands are out there.

And for Gods sake, GET AN EYE CREAM!

Know anyone who is commiting a crime against beauty? Send me an email at mo9191976@aol.com and out those SOB's! 

XOXO Miss Lady Mo