Sunday, March 10, 2013

HOLLYWOOD GLAM: BRIGITTE BARDOT INSPIRED MAKEUP



When I think of iconic beauties, Brigitte Bardot is at the top of the list. Her smokey cat eye and full nude lip has become a staple in modern glamour and has influenced beauties such as Claudia Schiffer and Pamela Anderson. I clearly do not pretend to look like any of these ladies, but it won't stop me from trying on this iconic look!


Start by priming the eye with a flesh tone shadow base. I used Painterly from MAC as it makes the colors glide on easily and makes the colors rich and vibrant! 
Using a clean, firm shadow brush, pat on Tilt by MAC. Tilt is a lovely blue-green pearl with a greyish-violet dual chrome. Using a blending brush, swirl the brush to the inner corner and round up to the middle of crease, using the occular bone as your guide. 
Pearl shadows with a blue base, used close to the inner corner of the eyes, brightens up the whites of the eyes and gives a fresh, awake look. A natural awake look, not a crackhead awake look. There is a subtle difference.
Using a contour shadow brush and starting in the middle of the lid, pat on a matte deep gray shadow, Print by MAC. You will be creating a slightly rounded "V"shape, that starts in the middle of the lower lid, pat out to the middle outer edge, round up and pat along the occular bone. Using a blending brush, blend grey shadow, concentrating on the crease. 


Now it's time to line the eyes! The Bardot liner is strong and is key to the all over look and because of this, I used 2 liners in 2 different colors. 
Brush an eyeliner brush, on to Wet n' Wild's cream shadow stick in Distress, an opalescent navy blue. Once you have a good amount, brush onto the lower eye line, starting at the inner corner, into the water line and out. At the outer corner, flick up gently so that there is a very slight wing. Repeat onto the top eye line.
For the second line, I used a black gel liner, MICA Beauty Cosmetics in black, ONLY on the top line. Starting at the inner corner, make a thin line, using the lashline as a guide. As you move from the middle of the lid to the outer corner, the line will become thicker. At the outer edge wing up and out. This look is very dramatic, but looks best if you DON'T exaggerate the wing by taking it out past where the brow ends. I've seen this and it ain't pretty and looks very Baby Jane in photographs.



After my eyes are finished is when I like to do my face makeup. This way you can whisk away any fall out from the eye shadow without creating streaks of black everywhere. For this look I used Chanel's Vitalumier Aqua cream compact makeup in 60 Beige. This foundation feels amazingly lightweight but the coverage is perfect. It is adjustable coverage, meaning you can add more without it looking caked on, but for me, the coverage is like a concealer and foundation wrapped up in a pretty package. This cream based foundation runs lighter in terms of color. Normally a 40 Beige would suffice, but mama had to go darker or else I'd look like a mime.
I used the same foundation under my eyes instead of concealer and then set the under eyes and t-zone with MAC's Forever Marilyn beauty powder, then set the rest of the face with Chanel's loose powder in 30 Naturel. This powder will run you about $52 bucks but because of the intense pigment and fine texture, a little goes a very long way. I have had this powder for 4 years and it hasn't gone bad, doesn't clog my pores or cause breakouts and is so finely milled that a light dusting on the face gives a beautiful satin finish. Please stop using a shitty loose powder that looks like chalk. In the long run you will spend less for the Chanel, waste less packaging, while looking flawless.
Using Albatross by NARS, highlight the bridge of the nose, abover the cheekbone and cupids bow, using a fan brush. This will highlight with precision and not create any fallout.
For this look, I did not contour and in fact, used a very soft blush, Mocha by MAC. With a soft cheek brush, apply blush only on the outer portion of my cheeks and NOT on the apple. I like to take my brush and blend the color up to the temples, in a "C" formation (snap, snap, suh-nap!). This gives a nice lift to the face and gives subtle color so that the eyes are still the focus.
Going back to the eyes, I use a pencil liner from Chanel in Auburn. Because this look features a strong brow, using a pencil gives stronger definition and really frames the eye area in a way that would be less interesting if a powder was used in it'd place. Powder liners, for me, are best suited for a softer, less dramatic look.
I like to apply mascara at the end of the look so as not to get powder on wet lashes. For this look I used They're Real from Benefit. I start off by brushing downward on the top of the lashes and THEN under and up in a curling motion. This will first extend the lashes and brush off any shadow or powder, then finally, add volume. I apply to lower lashes very lightly.
Along with the eyes, when we think of the Bardot look, the lip's are famously lush and full. For thie Bardot nude lip, I used Stripdown pencil by MAC to line my lips, softly brushing pencil into the center of the lip. 
Earlier today I made a nude lip butter just for this look and will share my "recipe" at the end. This is brushed on top of the lip, blended in with the liner with a firm lip brush. Hopefully that bit of instruction isn't really needed ;)

TA DAAAA!



And now for the lip recipe! We will be using a small ramakin or prep bowl that is made of thick glass and heat safe to hold the ingredients. 





Add a half a teaspoon of your favorite lip balm to the bowl. I used Tokyo Milk's Let Them Eat Cake, a yummy cocoa and coconut vanilla flavored balm. Then I cut of a chunk of Silhouette from Chanel, about 1/4 teaspoon and added it to the bowl. 
The hardest part was getting the gloss I used into the bowl. Is it necessary for the recipe to have gloss? Short answer: yes. I wanted a lip butter that was pigmented, nourishing but very shiny, not sticky. Taking my MAC Viva Glam Gaga 2 Lipglass, I used the applicator in a rolling motion to capture as much of it on my hand. You only need about 4 swipes to get the right amount, 1/4 teaspoon. Use the teaspoon to scrape gloss off the top of your hand and into the bowl. I didn't say it wasn't gonna get messy. This gloss is a bitch to get off the spoon and into the bowl so you may need a few more swipes to get an adequate amount. 



Next, fill a sauce pan with a cup of water and put on low heat, then place bowl inside the sauce pan.The water shouldn't come up past the bowl, you only want it to come up a little less than halfway to the bowl. This pseudo double bowler will melt down the ingredients slowly so that the texture and color is evenly distributed. Keep an eye on the mixture and stir with a wooden skewer or chopstick. No, really. If you see a little bit of bubbles that means you are done. You do not want this mixture to boil. No one likes burnt lip balm. 


Pour mixture into a little pot. I used a clean, empty eye cream container, repurposing it, but you can get cute tins or pots from craft stores or Etsy.
Have fun with this recipe and this look!




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